Billy here. We have finally gotten our feet wet and broken in the “new” used surfboard. We spent all of Saturday relaxing at our secret camp spot overlooking the ocean and breaking out the tunes. Cranked up the phonograph and listened to Hank croon. Practiced our theme song “Couple O’ Huckleberries” on the ukulele and backpacking guitar. Once we have it down we will post it here. Cooked up some tasty grubbles and gourmet snacks, including the spiced avocado cracker pictured here. Made our ultra hippie “mac ‘n’ cheese”: sprouted and boiled quinoa, buckwheat and millet, boiled with kale and mixed in with tahini, braggs and valentina hot sauce. Then yesterday morning we headed out toward Cannon Beach to bust out the surfboards, stopping for coffee at the Sleepy Monk. Spence outdid himself in cutting edge fashion and apparently the ladies loved it. At Indian Beach a gaggle of girls, while being buttered up by a young surfer stud, stopped him and told him he had a nice wetsuit then erupted into giggles.
I didn’t feel the usual trepidation of cold getting into the water. I was surprised to find that I didn’t feel cold at all getting in and the sun was out warming my back (and burning my face despite layers of sunscreen). After mouthfuls of salt, rocking and thrashing of wave after wave, my body began to finally unwind itself. It seems almost too obvious to say that once I began to stop fighting the waves, once I began to play and loosen, I began to start catching them and finding balance again. The water is such a gentle and at the same time unrelenting force. Just as the ocean has pounded the rocks to sand over the centuries, animals have been humbled since the age of the dinosaurs into smaller, more adjustable beings. It’s the lesson of the surf, each and every time, to let go all the catches, in the muscles, in the mind.
spence here. “well, good morning officer. a fine dawn, wouldn’t you say?” our plan to crash in the van in cannon beach, proper, was thwarted early this morning, as a wonderful example of “the law” tapped on our van window. he kindly reminded us that sleeping in the van in the middle town was against the law, but let us sleep in a little longer before we had to move on. he was so nice i felt bad inconveniencing him. we thought we would stay last night and watch the sunset, and by that time, didn’t really feel like driving all the way out to our usual camp spot. oh well. now that we have a “marked vehicle”, we shouldn’t have to worry bout thieves, since the cops will be watching our van for us.
anyway, it turns out we had a wonderful morning. being up so early, we were able to see the sun rise and watch the birds. i forgot how much i love the red-winged blackbird call, and the sound of frogs at dawn. we took a long walk on the beach and made some coffee, since nothing was open. this afternoon, we are to take to the water again. my wet suit, (which i’m pretty sure is an old diving scuba suit), made a big splash at the beach yesterday. i didn’t care. it was warm and i had a lot of fun. i can’t quite stand up on the surf board because of my knee–not quite stable enough–but some more thrashing about and i should get stronger in the coming weeks. i surfed just as badly as all the other folks who had hot black professional looking suits, which is why i love surfing in oregon. we met some nice surfer peeps and of course i thoroughly enjoyed the people watching.
last night, we were on the beach waiting for the sun to set. i tried to revive a fire that some other people had abandoned that was still smoldering. i piled it up and blew on it and added some kindling but it just smoked in my face. after i gave up and went back to my writing, it sparked up on its own! after a bit of tendering, it was a wonderful little fire. such is the lesson of this week, and onward in life. as soon as i let go and stop being so forceful with things, stop fussing and worrying, the sooner i will get my reward and lessons learned. p.s. check out the marzo van page! new photos!